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How do sunless-tanning products work?
The skin is made up of two main layers: the epidermis
on the outside and the dermis on the inside. Whether you are talking about sun
tanning or self-tanning, the epidermis is where the action
occurs. The epidermis is also made up of layers. The deepest
layer of the epidermis, called the stratum basale
(basal layer), is affected during sun tanning. The
stratum corneum (horny layer) is the outermost
layer of the epidermis -- it is this layer that is affected by
most sunless-tanning products.

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There are several different kinds of sunless-tanning
products available today. People have been able to pour on a
tan since 1960, when Coppertone® came out with the first
sunless-tanning product -- QT® or Quick Tanning Lotion. If you
are old enough to remember this, then you are probably
thinking of the incredibly orange hue this lotion produced.
Since then, there have been several advancements made on the
sunless-tanning front. These days, you can find tanning pills,
sunless- or self-tanners and bronzers. You can smooth, swipe
or spray on a light bronze glow or a deep, dark tan. Many of
these products take 45 minutes to one hour to start taking
effect, and once you factor in drying time, you could be
looking at about three hours spent achieving that sun-free
tan.
According to the American
Academy of Dermatology, the most effective products
available are sunless- or self-tanning lotions that contain
dihydroxyacetone (DHA) as the active ingredient. DHA is
a colorless sugar that interacts with the dead cells located
in the stratum corneum of the epidermis. As the sugar
interacts with the dead skin cells, a
color change occurs. This change usually lasts about five to
seven days from the initial application.
Every day, millions of dead skin cells are sloughed off or
worn away from the surface of your skin. In fact, every 35 to
45 days, you have an entirely new epidermis. This is why tans
from sunless- or self-tanning lotions will gradually fade --
as the dead cells are worn away, so is your tan. For this
reason, most of these products suggest that you reapply the
sunless- or self-tanner about every three days to maintain
your "tan."
Although gels, lotions or sprays that contain DHA are said
to be the most reliable and useful, there are dozens of other
types of products on the market. Tanning accelerators
-- lotions or pills that usually contain the amino acid
tyrosine -- claim that they stimulate and increase melanin
formation, thereby accelerating the tanning process. At this
time, there is no scientific data available to support these
claims.
Another sunless-tanning product is a tanning pill
that contains canthaxanthin, which is most commonly
used as a color additive in certain foods. Although the FDA
has approved the use of canthaxanthin in food, it does not
approve its use as a tanning agent. When used as a color
additive, only very small amounts of canthaxanthin are
necessary. As a tanning agent, however, much larger quantities
are used. After canthaxanthin is consumed, it is deposited all
over your body, including in your skin, which turns an
orange-brown color. These types of tanning pills have been
linked to various side effects, including hepatitis and
canthaxanthin retinopathy, a condition in which yellow
deposits form in the retina of the eye.
Another popular form of sunless tanning is the
bronzer. These powders and moisturizers, once applied,
create a tan that can easily be removed with soap and water.
More like make-up, these products tint or stain your skin only
until they are washed off.
It's important to remember that most of these products,
unless they contain an added sunscreen, will not protect you
from the sun's UVA and
UVB rays. Even products that do contain a sunscreen won't
be of much help, since they lose their efficacy within hours
of application. So, if you're planning to head outside to show
off your new glow, be sure to apply some extra sunscreen.
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